Torteria Da Gagarin Via del Cardinale Livorno Italy 21st May 2015

Torteria Da Gagarin is renowned for its 'Cinque e Cinque' or 'Five and Five' a pancake made from chickpea flour, water and olive oil, sandwiched between two pieces of bread, either focaccia or Italian baguette, with or without chargrilled aubergine.   The name 'Cinque e Cinque' originates from when focaccia bread and chickpeas cost 5 liras each.

We read the reviews on Tripadvisor so on a visit to Livorno whilst on a cruise, we had to pay this place a visit.   From the outside it was not impressive, we would normally walk right past, with the only clue it was the right place being the red graffiti 'Viva Gagarin' written on the wall, but peeking through the fly-screen the place was packed, so in we went.


The place itself is small with a counter top round the outside of the room, a few high stools for seating and a serving counter at the far end, with a wood burning oven in the wall behind.   A lady was taking orders and a chap was making pancakes in huge round pans.   We ordered two 'Cinque e Cinque' on  focaccia with aubergine and luckily managed to get a seat and sat down in anticipation.   The 'Cinque e Cinque' did not disappoint, the pancake was moist with tons of olive oil with aubergine soaked in garlic, olive oil, red chillies and herbs, they were awesome.   The place was a hive of activity with people coming and going, finally queuing outside the door, a sure sign of good food.   We are still talking about our visit even though a week has gone by, this place is definitely on the revisit list if we ever return to Livorno.


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